Food Wire – Michelle Locke

June 26, 2013May 26, 2014

Chez Panisse Reopens

I’m happy to report that Chez Panisse is all fixed up from the fire damage in March and opened this week.

I interviewed chef Alice Waters a few days before the opening and had a great time talking to her about the recovery. As always, she was totally zen about the whole thing and saw it as an opportunity for renewal rather than as a big giant pain. Don’t you just hate people like that? I kid.

Here’s a link to a story I wrote for AP about the reopening:

BERKELEY, CALIF. — Posing for a photograph in front of the refurbished front porch of her Chez Panisse restaurant, chef Alice Waters smiles as a passer-by calls out, “Looking good!”

It’s true. They do look good – both the chef with the sparkling blue eyes who helped ignite America’s interest in fresh, local food and the restaurant, all spruced up after damage from a fire this March.

This was the second fire to hit Chez Panisse in its 42-year history, coming almost exactly 31 years after a serious fire in 1982. Luckily, the toll this time was much less severe with sprinklers keeping the flames from spreading and damage mainly confined to the two-story front porch seating areas.

And if you’re looking for self-pity over this latest setback, you won’t find it at Alice’s restaurant.

“Whenever there is fire, new things happen. New things sprout up like in the forest. It’s just a moment to really reflect on what to do,” says Waters. “Everything seems to happen for a reason, it just sort of woke us all up.”

March 8, 2013

Chez Panisse fire: UPDATE

The reopening date for Chez Panisse has been postponed following the discovery that damage was more substantial than thought.

Fire broke out at the famous Berkeley restaurant early in the morning of March 8 but thanks to the automatic sprinkler system, much of the damage was contained to the exterior.

Founder and chef Alice Waters had hoped to reopen at least the upstairs cafe quite soon but the San Francisco Chronicle reports that is going to take longer than was initially estimated. There was significant damage to the front _ an elegant wooden facade _ side and underneath the building, which used to be a house.

On Tuesday, Waters tweeted: “We are hard at work! Thanks to all for your beautiful support–check here for the latest: http://tinyurl.com/y87cboj

The last fire at the restaurant happened almost exactly 31 years ago, on March 7, 1982. That fire was caused by a stove ember that ignited cooking coals. Cause of this fire is still under investigation.

Cheers.

July 18, 2012May 26, 2014

Foie Gras Fallout

Since today is National Caviar Day this seems as good a time as any to update you on what’s been happening since California’s foie gras ban took effect two weeks ago. So far, it’s a tale of loopholes, a lawsuit and _ damn, I cannot find a word beginning with “l” that means boycott, so I will have to break this alliterative string _ boycott.

The law, passed some years ago, bans the forcefeeding that makes ducks and geese, usually ducks, grow the unnaturally large and fatty livers used to produce the ultra-rich pâté. There was a lag time built into enforcement of the bill to see if producers could come up with a fattening method deemed humane, but that didn’t happen.

In the U.S., a group that includes restaurant owners, farmers and major producer Hudson Valley Foie Gras, has filed suit in Los Angeles federal court challenging the law as vague, saying it doesn’t adequately describe what “over-feeding” is. The suit also claims the ban interferes with free trade.

There’s been some indications the California Legislature may take another look at the issue, which could lead to the ban being repealed. This wouldn’t be the first such takeback. A foie gras ban passed by the Chicago City Council in 2006 was repealed two years later.

In France, Philippe Martin, president of the general council of Gers, a region in Southwest France known for its foie gras, has called for a boycott of California wines in protest. This is largely symbolic, but still interesting.

Meanwhile, most restaurants have been going along with the ban, but not all. A few have been sending out tidbits of free foie gras on the grounds that they’re not actually selling it. Some are offering to prepare foie gras that customers bring in. And the Presidio Social Club is ignoring the ban altogether, saying it’s immune from the state law due to being on federal land (the old Presidio Army Base).

I am following developments with a purely academic interest having never liked foie gras — too bland.

But if they ever try to ban liverwurst …

Cheers.

http://vinecdote.com/blog4/2012/07/foie-gras-lawsuit-california-french-wine-ban/

http://vinecdote.com/blog4/2012/06/chefs-protest-california-foie-gras-ban/

July 3, 2012May 26, 2014

UPDATE: Foie Gras Fighting, France weighs in

French producers of foie gras are striking out at California’s ban on the delicacy.

Philippe Martin, president of the general council of Gers, a region in Southwest France known for its foie gras, is calling for a boycott of California wines in protest.

I cannot say that I’m aware of a huge French market for California wines, but this is obviously a matter of principle. French producers say the California ban is a mistake and damages the image of the foie gras industry.

Read the story (in French) here. Google will translate for you, but, trust me, you are going to be thrown off by the references to “professionals fatty liver.” Kind of makes you think twice, doesn’t it?

(Related note: On a recent trip to France I ended up being served foie gras, which I don’t care for, at just about every meal. Which caused me to complain loudly to friends post-trip. “Foie gras four days in a row! It’s too much!” Needless to say, I was rightfully and mercilessly mocked for my First World problem. But I digress.)

California banned production of foie gras under a law passed in 2004 that regulates how poultry can be fed in California. (It didn’t take effect until this month to give producers a chance to come up with a “humane” alternative to gavage, the process in which ducks or geese are fattened up by being force-fed through a tube inserted down their necks.)

On Monday a suit was filed in Los Angeles challenging the law as unconstitutional. See the San Francisco Chronicle story here.

The suit was filed against the state on behalf of Hot’s Restaurant Group, another group representing farmers and distributors, and Hudson Valley Foie Gras, a major producer. Lawyers say they’ll ask for a preliminary injunction halting imposition of the law.

Proponents of the ban say force-feeding, in which bird livers expand to 10 times or more normal size, is cruel. Opponents disagree, saying the process isn’t particularly tortuous and, to a point, mimics the birds’ natural habit of gorging themselves before migration. Specific to the new law, the suit alleges it doesn’t give a clear enough definition of what constitutes over-feeding and also interferes with free trade.

June 6, 2012

Foie Gras Fervor

Starting July 1 it will be illegal to forcefeed fowl to produce foie gras in California, and a lot of top chefs aren’t at all happy about that.

A number of high-end restaurants have held elaborate, all-foie-gras dinners in the months leading up to the ban to express their dissatisfaction.

The process was banned by state law on the grounds that force-feeding fowl, usually ducks, to produce unnaturally engorged livers is cruel. The bill came with a seven-year delay to give the industry a chance to find another way to produce the fatty livers, but so far that hasn’t happened.

Those in favor of keeping to the old method say the ducks have, for the most part, a much better life than many animals raised for food and accuse the pro-ban side of having a bigger agenda of banning meat consumption altogether.

In the force-feeding process, a rubber tube is inserted several inches down the bird’s neck so that feed can be pumped directly into its stomach. I wrote a story on this when the foie gras fight started and visited a producer to see it in practice. I can’t say it was the most horrifying thing I ever saw on a farm. On the other hand, I cannot stand foie gras, so I guess I come out somewhat neutral on this one.

If, unlike me, you are a foie gras fan, here’s what the Chaya Brasserie in San Francisco will be serving June 18-30 to for it’s “Au Revoir Foie Gras” event.

Foie Gras Beignet

with Cinnamon-Port Wine Reduction

Shaved Foie Gras Torchon Salad

with Haricot Vert, Frisée, Kumquats, and Sherry-Dashi Gelée

Pan-Seared Foie Gras

with Corn Relish, Jalapeño-Green Onion Cornbread,

Miso- Barbeque Sauce

Oakwood Grilled American Wagyu Beef Zabuton

With Seared Foie Gras, Marinated Japanese Eggplant, Baby Bok Choy and Wasabi Beef Jus

Smoked Warm Magret Duck Breast Yamagobo + Watercress Salad, Burdock Root Ribbon, and Walnut-Sherry Vinaigrette

Seared Foie Gras Nigiri

with Fresh Wasabi, Sweet Soy, Sansho Pepper

Slow-Cooked Duck Breast Caterpillar Roll

with Crab, Avocado, Cucumber, Horseradish Aioli, Balsamic Reduction

Reservations—which are recommended—can be made by calling CHAYA Brasserie or by visiting www.thechaya.com or www.opentable.com.

Bon appetit, or not.

April 25, 2012

UPDATE: Sam Wo’s could reopen

Mmm congee, the soup that satisfies /Photo Michelle Locke

The popular Sam Wo restaurant in San Francisco’s Chinatown may not have served its last supper after all.

The restaurant is a Chinatown staple famous for serving up solid Cantonese fare as well as being the stomping grounds of the late Edsel Ford Fung, a no-filter kind of guy who would sometimes insult customers — although on other occasions he would encourage people to eat up and order cheap, filling dishes.

It’s been in business for more than a century, but closed last week after getting a bad grade from San Francisco food inspectors. Owner David Ho said the building was just too old and dilapidated to make the kind of changes required to bring things up to standard.

But the situation changed after the closing announcement triggered an outpouring of support. Lines wrapped around the block Friday as customers came for one last plate of chow fun or dish of rice porridge and the family put an announcement up on its website asking supporters to show up at a hearing with public health officials.

The meeting was held Tuesday and the room was packed. The Ho family will have to make a number of changes to reopen, including installing a commercial refrigeration unit and more sinks. And they’ll have to get rid of the rodents. The wiring needs fixing and the fire escape (it’s a three-story restaurant) needs some work, too.

Still, family members say they’d like to stay in business if possible.

For more on the hearing, go to the SF Chron story here.

Sam Wo’s Closing

April 19, 2012May 26, 2014

Chinatown’s Sam Wo’s to close

Big news out of San Francisco’s Chinatown. The San Francisco Chronicle’s Inside Scoop section reports that owner David Ho confirms the place is closing down after service Friday.

Even if you’ve never been to San Francisco or its Chinatown, you may have heard of this tiny restaurant sandwiched into a sliver of a building. It’s been in business for more than 100 years and during the ’50s was popular with heroes of the Beat scene like Jack Kerouac. It’s probably best-known for cranky waiter Edsel Ford Fung who used to insult customers on a regular basis to hold on to his unofficial title as world’s rudest waiter.

Here is the menu so you can see what you’ll miss. It’s the kind of hearty, calor-ific fare you will find in a lot of Chinatown dives. Which, of course, is just my style. I’m a big fan of the Sampan Porridge with Chinese doughnut. It’s not as scary as it sounds — seafood in a thick rice soup served with delicious fried bread on the side. I would have to say that Mr. Vinecdote (also a Ho, but no relation to David, yes that does make me Mrs. Ho, what of it) has brought many good things into my life with Chinese fried bread near the top of the list.

Late-night talk show host Conan O’Brien visited Sam Wo’s during a tour stop here some years ago and made this rather irreverent commercial for the place; it starts at 2:20 into this clip (but the beginning showing Conan the Cablecar-man is funny, too.)

Cheers.

March 8, 2012May 26, 2014

Food review makes the news

lamb and peas — Not necessarily an Olive Garden entree /Photo Michelle Locke

I am loving a story that is developing today in the world of food criticism. It began when Grand Forks Herald columnist Marilyn Hagerty reviewed the new Olive Garden that has just opened in town. The article is headlined, “THE EATBEAT: Long-awaited Olive Garden receives warm welcome,” and I take away two things from that. One: She liked it. Two: I am thoroughly cross with myself for not coming up with “EatBeat.”

But it’s what happened next that is the interesting part.

Not too surprisingly, Internet snarkers chewed over the review like so much chum, roundly mocking the idea of getting excited over a chain restaurant that is, let’s say, not exactly where the elite meets for meat. “Saddest town in America?” was one tweet accompanying a link to the story.

Then, my favorite truism of journalism, “(just about) no such thing as bad publicity,” came into play as the review went viral. Thirty-six hours in, it had 107,000 views compared to the paper’s second most-read story, about the UND Fighting Sioux nickname, which had 5,000 reviews.

Here is a follow-up story by the Herald. (h/t to food writer Regina Schrambling who tweeted this on her @gastropoda Twitter account, which is how I saw it.)

Just in case you need a primer, Grand Forks is the third-largest city in North Dakota and is at the fork of the Red Lake River and the Red River of the north.

It may interest you to know that my first newspaper job was not that far from the Red River of the south, in Wichita Falls, Texas, to be precise. So, I’m a little bit familiar with this cultural territory. I can remember the near-unbridled excitement when a Red Lobster (owned by the same company that owns Olive Garden) opened in our town back in … some years ago. The city council reporter and I were among the first to dine. Lobster with butter! Popcorn shrimp! I cannot remember how much trouble it was to get a drink, at that time there was a Byzantine series of drinking rules in place that for all I know may still exist, but I do seem to recall ordering glasses of wine which came in those well-regarded varietals, Red or White.

Luckily we were a PMs (afternoon) paper so no one expected us to do any actual work after 2 p.m. Well, I suppose an editor or two might have expected it, but it didn’ t happen.

In the newspaper follow-up story, Hagerty says she’s been working 30-40 years. (This is someone who subscribes to my views on time specificity.) She also says her daughter urged her to read the FB comments on the review. But, according to the Herald, “`I told her I’m working on my Sunday column and I’m going to play bridge this afternoon, so I don’t have time to read all this crap.”

Could I love this woman any more?

No, I could not.

Cheers, populist-ically.

April 19, 2011

Chevalier Thomas Keller

convo — Thomas Keller greets well-wishers /Michelle Locke

Chef Thomas Keller joined a select group this year when he was named a chevalier by the French Legion of Honor. Only two other Americans who work in food have received that honor, Julia Child and Alice Waters.

Keller celebrated the award at a recent ceremony at his Napa Valley restaurant, The French Laundry in Yountville, and some notable names turned out of the affair. Among those in attendance were chefs Gary Danko and Alice Waters, vintner Bill Harlan, Chuck Williams, founder of the Williams-Sonoma kitchen equipment stores. and Margrit Mondavi.

It was a very elegant affair with a string quartet and everyone dressed to the nines. Even a very well-behaved poodle in attendance wore a neat little black tie. Waiters circulated with Champagne and trays of fabulous canapes. I snacked first and asked questions later which is how I came to eat my first-ever snail, tucked into a crispy little vol-au-vent. I’m happy to report it was delicious.

Mondavi, widow of vintner Robert Mondavi had the crowd laughing as she talked about remembering the days when Yountville didn’t have a paved road. Now the tiny town is a nexus of fine dining and luxury lodging, much of which has to do with Keller’s world-famous French Laundry. He’s since gone on to open other restaurants including Bouchon and Ad Hoc in Yountville and Per Se in New York.

Waters, cofounder of Berkeley’s Chez Panisse and known nationally for her work in promoting eating fresh, seasonal food, also spoke, congratulating Keller for his commitment to quality.

“He has held on to a purity about the food, a sense of the importance of gastronomy, the real pleasure that he brings to people at the talbe _ it’s a beautiful thing,” Waters said.

dog — Black tie and tail /Michelle Locke

March 30, 2011

Keeping up with the royals

I’ve got a couple of royal wedding food stories going and I cannot stop singing, “What a lovely day for a wedding.”

It’s really rather unfortunate that I know just the one line.

Anyway, if you’re looking to keep up on the doings of Kate and Wills, here are a few links.

The official site. The latest from Buckingham Palace.

@CassVinograd AP London-based correspondent tweeting with a delightfully irreverent take.

The royal Facebook page. (OK, I typed that perfectly calmly but in my head I’m going, “Good Grief! The royals have a Facebook page!??! What next? The palace Twitter feed?” And here, of course, is the palace Twitter feed, although as of Wednesday morning it was down so perhaps that’s some consolation.)

And, finally, @Queen_UK. No, of course, it’s not the real QE2. But she/he’s quite funny and will keep you up to date on when it’s #ginoclock. Which apparently comes around more often than I would have thought.