Aiming high in Argentina

The Andes seen from the Nieto winery in the Mendoza /Michelle Locke

The high desert of the Mendoza wine region is not the Napa Valley. But winegrowers in both places share a similar idea: Higher is better.

In Napa, that means planting grapes on the slopes of the valley’s gentle hills. In the Mendoza, it means getting a little closer to the Andes. The theory for both places is that vines that have to work harder to survive produce more intense fruit.

Beautiful but arid, the wine growing areas of the Mendoza give off an austere vibe even in mild spring weather. Many of the vines grow very tall here; it’s hot, so need to keep the grape clusters close to the earth. Another unusual sight — black netting is strung along the tops of vines as protection against the hailstorms that can develop from the Andes mountains and are a major threat to crops here.

Walking along the Mendoza vineyards and looking up at the Andes looming in the distance is something I haven’t gotten used to. It feels like someone’s Photoshopped in the craggy, snow-dusted peaks. But they’re real all right and useful for more than a stunning backdrop. An intricate system of channels and aqueducts siphons runoff from snowmelt to the region.

In just a few days, I’ve only gotten the vaguest notion of the local culture. But here is a performance of a traditional dance that I liked a lot. The dancers were so graceful and elegant. (And I totally have to have some of those gaucho pants.)

Hola, Argentina!

 

Street scene in Mendoza /Michelle Locke

Friends, you know what’s a good way to introduce yourself to Argentina’s wine country? Riding through the vineyards of Mendoza on horseback.

Yes, I couldn’t be more surprised myself, but that’s what happened. My horse, named Socket, for reasons I was unable to determine, was a teensy bit self-willed, but we got on tolerably well. I think my, “Whoa, boy, I’ve put you in ‘park'” proved efficacious, And I flatly deny that was me squawking, “Ooh, Mummy!” when we went up that tricky bit. As you can no doubt gather I’ve arrived in Mendoza, center of Argentina’s wine country. I haven’t seen a great deal of it so far, but what little I have seen has been very attractive. Lots of green parks and gracious buildings.

Not surprisingly since this is prime cattle country, the menu has been meat followed by meat with a side of meat, please see below.

Speaking of meaty issues, I have now eaten my first blood sausage. It was OK, but nothing to get excited about. Squeamish-wise, I think if you’ve eaten Spam you’ve pretty much plumbed the depths of alimentary adventure, but I doubt I’m going to be combing the Berkeley farmers’ market for this. Next up, tango lessons. It can’t be that hard, right?

Hasta la vista.