Fall For Tahoe

Fringed by snow or gleaming cobalt blue under sunny skies, Lake Tahoe is a favorite in summer and winter. But there’s a third side to Tahoe: fall.

As crowds thin out, the region seems to take a breath as it prepares for the seasonal switchover from camping and sailing to ski runs and cozy chalet evenings. Trails are roomier, rates cheaper and the lake waters are beautiful but bracing. All this and leaf-peeping, too.

Here are some suggestions.

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Santa Cruz: The complete how-to guide


I’ve visited the California beach resort of Santa Cruz when I was young enough to eat the fried clams and candied apples without mentally planning two weeks of Atkins, when I was pregnant and too large and nauseous to do anything more than loll on the beach and try not to get mistaken for a distressed whale, when I was celebrating career triumphs, when I was nursing a giant case of professional rejection.

And never once have I had anything but a fine old time.

There is just something about the kitschy, rowdy, unabashedly retro charms of Surf City, USA,* that gets me every time.

Here are some tips if you’re thinking of visiting.



About 70 miles south of San Francisco. Take I-280 to CA85 from San Francisco, I-880 to CA 17 from the east side of the bay. Traffic can be hideous, definitely don’t hit 17 at 11 a.m. on a summer Saturday, try for early or late and check traffic apps ahead of time so you’ll at least know what to expect.Once you’re there, map out everywhere you want to go on a smartphone app. This city isn’t built on a grid system and random one-way streets will further mess you up.




Splurge: If you’ve got the bucks, the Dream Inn is IT. Every room an ocean view, modern, bright, room service if you want it from the very excellent Aquarius restaurant, fancy in-room coffee machines, nice bathrooms and a fabulous pool/hot tub area overlooking the beach. It’s a short walk from the Boardwalk but distanced from the string of cheap motels and eateries that cluster around the amusement park and it’s bang on the West Cliff Drive hiking/biking path, a picturesque 3-mile cliff-top path that ends at Natural Bridges state beach. (I am old enough to remember when there were actual natural stone bridges at this beach, as opposed to indeterminate hunks of rock.)

Save: If you don’t have the bucks, the Sea & Sand Inn next door to the Dream Inn is quite a bit cheaper (although still far from cut-rate), clean, same views. But take earplugs. Walls are thin and there are metal security gates that clang all night long and will have you tossing and turning and casting your vote in favor of some nice, quiet cat-burglary.

Steal: If you’re really counting pennies, Ocean Pacific Lodge is about a block inland from the Dream Inn/Sea & Sand location. No view and rooms are a bit basic, but clean and so, so much cheaper than the ocean-fronters. Continue reading “Santa Cruz: The complete how-to guide”

Santa Cruz Clam Chowder Cookoff 2014

A booth at the Santa Cruz 2014 Clam Chowder Cookoff /Photo Michelle Locke

“We’ve got the amateur table, so I’ll give you some advice: Take small sips. If it’s green avoid it. But don’t worry, it’s great fun!” And with that sage advice my adventures as a judge at the 33rd annual  Santa Cruz Clam Chowder Cookoff began.

The contest, which took place last weekend, was my first time as a food judge. I’ve reviewed wines before, but, boy was this different. A LOT more laughs at the chowder table. No spitting. And, beer to “cleanse the palate.” This is something that I think would be an excellent addition to wine tastings.

The event , sponsored by the Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk and the City of Santa Cruz, raises funds for local parks and at a pretty good clip, too; last year’s total was $62,000.

There are two categories, Boston and Manhattan and two competitive divisions, individual, i.e. amateur, and professionals, local restaurants, etc. There were about 70 soups in all, although we divided the duties so no one had to taste all 70.

Mmm. Clams. /Photo Michelle Locke

Before the tasting started we pinned on our handsome “Judge” ribbons and wandered up and down the Boardwalk evaluating booths for “Most Creative.”

I have never been so warmly welcomed in my life. It was a beautiful thing, especially for a former news reporter.

Staying true to my profession, I based my picks on wordplay, nominating the Silence of the Clams team along with Clam Halen and the UC Santa Cruz dining services. (OK, their name wasn’t too catchy but gotta love a team that kept yelling out, “Get your chowdah cum laude, right here.”) Also, the school mascot is a banana slug which has to count for something.

I asked each team what their secret ingredient was. Answers included “corn,” “it’s a secret,” “fresh thyme” and “human flesh.” One guess which team came up with that last one.

Then it was inside to sip soups. I whipped out my pen, purloined borrowed from my room at the fabulous Santa Cruz Dream Inn. And then looked up and realized I was sitting across from a Dream Inn guy.

“This is totally not a pen I just ripped off from your hotel,” I said, adding, “Ha ha,” for maximum sophistication.

I am suave.

UCSC Dining Services clam chowder contest booth /Photo Michelle Locke

We were looking for consistency, not too thick, not too thin, a good clam-y taste, and nothing too distracting. Team that decided to put chunks of tomato in your Boston clam chowder? Sorry, no.

Some of the soups were meh. Some were not bad. And some were a sublime expression of clam chowder. To wit, milk-bacon soup with a generous handful of non-rubbery clams and tender but not mushy cubes of potato.

There were times when I felt myself slipping into wine tasting mode. I caught myself once or twice trying to swirl the chowder, which resulted in slinging some of it on the table, and invariably sniffed before I sipped. At one point I forgot myself entirely and declared, “Hmm, I get a little white pepper on the finish,” which led another judge to look at me, impressed, and say, “How did you know that?”

“Because I’m full of sh*t,” I was compelled to answer sheepishly.

Suave, I tell you.

Santa Cruz Boardwalk /Photo Michelle Locke

It took about an hour and a half to narrow down the finalists and about another 30 minutes to crown winners. We were tasting blind, naturally, so it wasn’t until later that I found out that Silence of the Clams won in the individual category for Boston chowder, go you little cannibals. And UCSC dining services were tops in the professional group for Manhattan. You rock, slug punsters.

It was a fun afternoon and a great way to start what I have NO DOUBT will be a long and glorious career as a food judge.

But it will be a while before I eat clam chowder again.