Posted on July 11, 2016March 2, 2017Slideshow: Montevideo BBQ is big here and the Mercado del Puerto is a good place to find it, but you can get some vegetables along with your meat. A street vendor sells the traditional gourds, spoons and thermoses essential for making mate, the hot tea many Uruguayans sip all day. Beef sandwiches known as chivitos are a Montevideo “must-eat.” They can come fairly restrained like this one from La Pasiva or piled high with ingredients plus an egg on top for good measure. Look down as you walk, you may find that holes in the paving have been patched with colorful pieces of tile. You won’t walk far before finding a cafe to rest at, which I think is a good thing. Faded paintwork makes for a beautifully pastel note in this Montevideo alley. Montevideo’s many squares are lit up at night, making for a cheerful sight. The rooftop terrace of the Alma Historica hotel is an excellent place to take in the mishmash of architectural styles that is Montevideo’s cityscape. This statute in Independence Square celebrates Uruguayan hero Gen. Jose Gervasio Artigas. I loved this bookstore/cafe in the Old City even though I don’t really read Spanish. Another square, another statute of a hero on a horseback. This is a very cool outdoor gallery at the Prado, Montevideo’s huge urban park. Another interesting museum, this one the Contemporary Art Museum set in a former prison. A path beside a river in the Prado. Montevideo is home to about half of the country’s population of 3-4 million but the city has many tranquil spaces. Lily pond in the Asian section of the city’s botanical gardens. I loved this building which has English tours twice a day. It’s where parliament meets. Named because of its size (footsteps are muffled), this is where Uruguay’s Constitution is kept under guard 24/7. A handcarved detail in the marble decorating the Legislative Palace. Now a Sofitel property, this used to be the Hotel Carrasco where the rich and famous came to play and gamble. Back in the day, Einstein stopped in. This year, it was the Rolling Stones. The lovingly restored ceiling of the old Hotel Carrasco casino, now a fabulous dining space. A sandy beach along the River Plate, so wide you think it’s a sea, just one of many beaches along Las Ramblas, the waterfront roadway tracing about 14 miles of Montevideo coastline.
Posted on March 17, 2016April 5, 2016Day Out in Dublin Tasting room with a view at Teeling. Sunset on the Liffey.
Posted on August 4, 2015January 31, 2016Day Out in Montmartre This is Montmartre … Sacre Coeur … … the Moulin Rouge … … that place where Amelie worked in that movie. This is also Montmartre … tacky sex shops … … people (they’ll always have Paris, I guess) … … and more people … too many people. You can find some peace by climbing the 300+ steps of the Sacre Coeur dome. Not too many people do that. You get a lovely view plus a fresh breeze. For more tranquility, head for the left corner of the cathedral steps and look for the tranquil little Louis-Michel park. It’s shady and cool. Even better? The Montmartre Cemetery at the bottom of the hill. Most of the inhabitants are extremely quiet. Lots of artistes buried here, including composer Hector Berlioz. (Best known for Symphonie Fantastique if you need to bust that out.) Tombs. Statue of a guy who looks kind of like Rodin’s Thinker having a day off. He has a butt named Richard. In other news, I am 12. And right around the corner an “Irish” pub with A/C and real, live, frozen ice. They had me at ice, baby. Adieu, Sacre Coeur. A bientot!
Posted on February 5, 2015February 5, 2015Pompeii Gallery A sign celebrates life in the ruined city of Pompeii The forum at Pompeii where major commerce was carried out. If you don’t have a good guide or a strong knowledge of Pompeii, you will probably spend a lot of your time doing this. Check out the grooves in this Pompeii street worn by chariot wheels. A view of vineyards growing near Villa of Mysteries. An ancient lagar where grapes were pressed by foot to make wine. Another view of Pompeii vineyards. Carved lions heads and paws that once supported a dining table. Millstones used to grind wheat in a Pompeii bakery. Detail from the ceiling of a Pompeii bathhouse Detail from bathhouse ceiling. This brothel bed was made of stone. Making sure no one got settled in for the night? Or did they have really stellar mattresses on top. Pictures on the walls of Pompeii’s main brothel, the Lupanare. A dancing figure with Pinocchio-esque qualities at the Villa of Mysteries. (Look closely.) A still-lovely fragment of a temple. Put this one in just because I liked the colors. Stacked up artifacts are a reminder that Pompeii is a work in progress. 2,000 years underground didn’t destroy Pompeii, but being discovered and universally loved is taking a toll. There are a lot of stray dogs in Pompeii, which can be a little bit heartbreaking, but the ones we saw seemed OK. Pompeiians captured as they tried to flee the fury of Vesuvius. Plaster cast of a Pompeii man overtaken by the lava. Clouds reflected in the glass case holding body casts in the Garden of the Fugitives.
Posted on October 13, 2014October 13, 2014Strolling through Soave This is Soave, a pretty little medieval village in Italy’s Veneto district that I visited recently. Before taking a walk, it’s important to hydrate. I like to refresh with an Aperol spritz. The classic Fiat 500. Don’t go too fast, but it goes pretty far. I AM big. It’s the cars that got small. h/t Norma Desmond. These are vineyards of the garnega grape that goes into the famous Soave white wine. I waited for ages for a gust of wind to catch this orange banner in front of a church. Because I am a professional. Soave vineyards, golden hour. I won’t lie to you. A lot of Soave is straight uphll. And there’s always that one guy who has to show everyone else up. View from the ramparts of the Soave fortress. Which I finally puffed to the top of, about an hour after bicycle dude. Don’t know why there’s a statue of a little dog wearing a crown, but, hey, why not? Here I am. A nice guy from New Zealand took this. Kiwis are the best. I call it “Suave in Soave.” Only one way to end this tour …
Posted on August 21, 2014December 9, 2014Peru, Pisco & Me I visited Peru this year and saw a lot of cool things including this cute little vicuna. I went to the marine sanctuary at Paracas … ,,, and saw the “Candelabra,” an amazing Incan etching on the side of a hill. It’s called the candelabra because that’s what it resembles. No one knows if it’s a sign or a symbol or what. Impressive AND eerie. This is Isla Ballestas in the Paracas Wildlife Reserve. There were baby sea lions that looked like little blobs of black rubber … … and big sea lions … … and really big sea lions. There were birds … … even a few penguins … … and more birds. It’s a fun place to visit but be prepared to smell a LOT of bird poop. And do not forget to wear a hat. If you get my drift. It was pisco harvest time. I went to the Porton distillery. It’s an interesting mix of ancient tradition and modern technology. The “botijas” used to store pisco in olden days. Modern stills. This is Porton Master Distiller Johnny Schuler. He is largely responsible for the resurgence of high-quality Peruvian pisco. Here he is tasting the first run of pisco, which is distilled from grapes and is a white brandy. These are two of his hard-working staff members. At the Vinas de Oro distillery I got to wear this nifty outfit. I saw a demonstration of Peruvian paso, dancing horses. And I went to a vendimia (harvest) celebration, where local beauty queens and their swains danced on the grapes. I visited Lima and saw the famous “The Kiss” statue on the coast. No one kissed me. And I took a look at the Lima pyramids, which were getting a little maintenance. I did some serious pisco sour research … more research … … I’m like the Einstein of pisco sours. But I could not compete with Ernest Hemingway. He is said to have set a record for pisco sour consumption at this bar in the Gran Bolivar hotel. No one could tell me what it was, but it was “a lot.” This is George, a barman at the Hilton Mira Flores. He has mad pisco sour skills. This is the Alembic bar where they infuse piscos with all sorts of things. This is the original La Mar restaurant.founded by Peruvian celebrity chef Gaston Acurio. Later on I ran into Gaston, which was cool. FYI, while I could stand to lose a few I am not as fat as this picture. And then it was time to go home. Hasta la vista, Peru!
Posted on April 12, 2014May 26, 2014New Zealand Vistas Misty morning on Lake Wakatipu Red boat A smile on Lake Wakatipu TSS Earnslaw Lake view Brennan Winery Winemaker Duncan Forsyth of Mt. Edward Roses at Northburn Station Lineup at Akarua winery Northburn Station Amisfeld Winery Lake Wakatipu from above The Remarkables Aerial view of Lake Wakatipu Frozen Lake Isabel Lupins Sunset at Amisfeld Sunrise over Lake Wakatipu
Posted on April 12, 2014April 12, 2014A Visit to Venice View from the Academy Bridge Basilica della Salute Candles in the basilica Della Salute dome Gondolier Mmm, gelato Canal at sunset Antique cellos A guy and his lute Jewish Ghetto memorial Bridge of Sighs Enjoying wine on the waterfront Sunset for della Salute Pigeons in St. Mark’s Square Venice skyline St. Mark’s evening scene
Posted on April 12, 2014April 12, 2014Cruising through Cognac Ugni grapes growing in Cognac Louis Royer cellar RemyMartin distillery Cognac at D’Usse Jerome Royer Boating on the Charente Courvoisier Chateau Hennessy tasting Hennessy barrels Sunset in cognac